SIZES & SPECS
Shank, Snap, Jeans Button and Rivet: Hardware Types Explained
Garment hardware is specified by function before size. A shank button holds a garment closed but sits proud of the fabric; a snap fastener closes and releases; a rivet reinforces a stress point; a jeans button does all three. This reference covers the seven hardware types we produce most often, with their standard dimensions and how each is attached.
The Seven Types We Produce Most
| Type | Function | Typical size | Attachment | Common on |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shank button | Holds garment closed, sits above fabric | 14L–40L, shank 3–6 mm | Sewn through shank | Tailoring, coats, blazers, uniforms |
| Sew-through button | Holds garment closed, sits flat | 14L–60L, 2 or 4 holes | Sewn through holes | Shirts, blouses, knitwear |
| Snap fastener (press stud) | Closes and releases repeatedly | 9–15 mm cap | Riveted or sewn | Childrenswear, jackets, bags, leather |
| Jeans button (tack button) | Holds jeans waistband closed, decorative | 17 mm cap typical | Riveted, no sew-through | Denim, workwear, dungarees |
| Rivet | Reinforces a stress point | 6–10 mm cap | Riveted through fabric | Denim pocket corners, leather goods |
| Hook and bar / eye | Closes waistbands, concealed | Assorted | Sewn | Trousers, skirts, tailoring |
| D-ring / adjuster | Webbing adjustment and attachment | Custom, to drawing | Sewn through webbing | Outerwear, bags, straps, workwear |
Shank vs Sew-Through: The Structural Difference
The distinction is not cosmetic. A shank button has a raised loop on the reverse, so the button sits above the fabric. That gap is what allows a thick garment — a coat, a lined blazer — to close without distorting the fabric around the buttonhole. A sew-through button sits flat against the fabric, which is fine on a shirt where the placket is thin, but on a coat it pulls the fabric out of shape.
- Shank height matters. The shank has to clear the fabric thickness plus the buttonhole. On a heavy wool coat, a 3mm shank will not close cleanly over a layered front — 5mm or more is usually needed.
- Shank orientation. Shanks are specified as straight, angled or flexible. A flexible shank is more forgiving on thick fabric and reduces the strain on the stitching.
- Always match the shank to the garment, not to the button face. Two 24L buttons with different shank heights are not interchangeable.
Snap Fasteners
A snap fastener has four parts: two caps (the visible face on each side of the fabric) and two bodies (the male stud and female socket) that engage. Caps can be riveted to the fabric or sewn, depending on the construction.
- Riveted snaps are set with a press and cannot be removed without destroying the cap — the strongest and most common option on jackets, denim and bags.
- Sewn snaps are used where the fabric is delicate, or where the design calls for a decorative cap that must be replaceable.
- Holding force is the specification that matters. Snaps are rated by the pull force needed to separate them. On childrenswear this is a safety-relevant figure, and test data should be available per batch.
- Nickel release applies. Snaps are skin-contact parts on many garments and fall within the EU nickel restriction. Ask for the EN 1811 report where relevant.
Jeans Buttons
A jeans button — also called a tack button — is a two-part riveted assembly: a cap on the face and a backing piece on the reverse. It is not sewn. The waistband is pierced and the button is set with a press.
- Typical cap diameter is 17 mm, though 15 mm and 20 mm are produced for smaller or heavier garments.
- The backing piece is part of the specification. A tack button only holds if the backing piece suits the fabric weight and the riveting depth. A backing sized for a light denim will not hold on a 14 oz selvedge.
- Consider the wash process. Denim is often stone-washed or enzyme-washed after the button is attached, so the plating has to survive an industrial wash. This is where thin decorative plating fails — see the plating guide.
- Needle detection is essential, and the record should reflect the whole batch, not just the start of the run.
Rivets
A rivet is a small two-part fastener pressed through fabric to reinforce a point that would otherwise tear. Pocket corners on denim are the classic application; leather goods use them heavily as well.
- Standard cap sizes run 6 mm to 10 mm. Pocket corners on denim typically use 8–10 mm; finer leather work uses 6–8 mm.
- Rivet length must match fabric thickness. Too short and it will not set; too long and it deforms on setting. Send the fabric stack-up and we will specify the length.
- Decorative rivets with a domed or engraved cap are common on premium denim and are set the same way.
Specifying Hardware for a New Garment
The fields we need to quote hardware accurately, most of which also apply to buttons:
- Hardware type and function — what it has to hold or adjust
- Fabric thickness at the attachment point, and how many layers the press must penetrate
- Base metal and plating, driven by the care label and process
- Face diameter and, for shank buttons, shank height and orientation
- Logo and finish — engraved, embossed, laser-etched or printed
- Whether the part contacts skin, and whether nickel-release testing is required
- Quantity, target date and whether the part is attached before or after any garment wash
Quick Answers
What is the difference between a shank button and a sew-through button?
A shank button has a raised loop on the reverse so the button sits above the fabric, which suits thick garments like coats and blazers. A sew-through button sits flat against the fabric and suits shirts and thin plackets.
What size is a jeans button?
17 mm cap diameter is standard, with 15 mm and 20 mm produced for lighter or heavier garments. The backing piece must be matched to the fabric weight.
How big are rivets on denim?
8–10 mm cap diameter on denim pocket corners. Rivet length must match the fabric stack-up or the rivet will deform when set.
How do snap fasteners attach?
Riveted with a press, or sewn where the fabric is delicate. Riveted snaps are stronger and are the standard on jackets, denim and bags.
Can you supply hardware to fit my own fabric?
Yes, and that is the reliable way to do it. Send a fabric sample with the enquiry and we will specify the shank height, rivet length and backing piece against the actual material.
Need a quote on this specification?
Send the size, material, quantity and target date. We reply with unit price, MOQ and lead time within 24 hours — from our own factory in Ruian, Zhejiang.